Turn on the Forehand
In a turn on the forehand, we are asking the horse to move his haunches around a front pivot foot. This is building on the disengaging the haunches exercise described earlier. To ask the horse to move its haunches to the right, we use the following cues:
1.Left direct rein to create left bend
2.Left leg at Button #3 to ask the haunches to move right
3.Right leg at Button #1 to hold the shoulder
4.Right supporting rein-most likely will need to use a direct rein to stop forward movement or slow the front end.
The footfall pattern of a turn on the forehand to the right should then be: Left hind crossing in front of right hind, left front slightly shifting, right hind, then right front. The Left front would be the pivot foot, and the right front should “walk” around the left front.
Variations of a turn on the forehand: as the horse gets more comfortable with the maneuver, try the gradually reduce the bend until the horse’s head and neck are straight.
Next Time: Haunches In
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Advanced Exercises: Bridling Up
Advanced Exercises
Once the horse has a basic understanding of how to yield his basic body parts, it is time to further refine that control to create a more responsive horse.
Bridling Up
This exercise is the beginning of collection. To “Bridle up” or “Put a horse in the bridle” we are asking him to flex at the poll and reach further up underneath himself with his hind legs. To ask a horse to bridle up:
1. Both direct reins-keeping hands wide to make it easier for the horse to understand
2. Bump with both legs at button #2 in rhythm with the horses stride to ask him to move forward and step further underneath himself. Think of pushing the horse to the bit
3. Release all rein pressure when the horse flexes at the poll.
When the horse will bridle up at the walk, move to the trot, then to the lope.
Next Time: Turn on the Forehand
Once the horse has a basic understanding of how to yield his basic body parts, it is time to further refine that control to create a more responsive horse.
Bridling Up
This exercise is the beginning of collection. To “Bridle up” or “Put a horse in the bridle” we are asking him to flex at the poll and reach further up underneath himself with his hind legs. To ask a horse to bridle up:
1. Both direct reins-keeping hands wide to make it easier for the horse to understand
2. Bump with both legs at button #2 in rhythm with the horses stride to ask him to move forward and step further underneath himself. Think of pushing the horse to the bit
3. Release all rein pressure when the horse flexes at the poll.
When the horse will bridle up at the walk, move to the trot, then to the lope.
Next Time: Turn on the Forehand
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Controlling the Haunches: Disengaging the Haunches
Controlling the Haunches: Disengaging the Haunches
Haunch control is very important-it is necessary to ask a horse to pick up the correct leads, and when asking for lead changes.
To ask for the horse to yield, or disengage, his haunches, it is easier in the beginning to first ask him to flex his neck laterally, then use the leg on the same side as the bend at button #3 to ask his hips to move over. For example, if we want the horse’s hip to move to the right, we would ask the horse to bend his neck to the left (direct rein back to your hip) then add your left leg at button #3 to ask his hip to move right. Reverse the cues to move his hip to the left.
When your horse is moving his hips in both directions with his neck flexed laterally, try to isolate his hips-that is, ask him to move his hips while keeping his neck straight. Use only your leg at button #3, and enough rein pressure to keep your horse from moving forward.
Another idea to help isolate the hip is to have your horse parallel to the arena wall, or on the rail close to the wall. Keeping his nose at about the same spot on the wall, ask his hip to move over until you have made a 180 degree turn on the haunches. You should end paralell to the wall again, but facing the other direction down the rail.
Next time: Advanced Exercises: Bridling Up
Haunch control is very important-it is necessary to ask a horse to pick up the correct leads, and when asking for lead changes.
To ask for the horse to yield, or disengage, his haunches, it is easier in the beginning to first ask him to flex his neck laterally, then use the leg on the same side as the bend at button #3 to ask his hips to move over. For example, if we want the horse’s hip to move to the right, we would ask the horse to bend his neck to the left (direct rein back to your hip) then add your left leg at button #3 to ask his hip to move right. Reverse the cues to move his hip to the left.
When your horse is moving his hips in both directions with his neck flexed laterally, try to isolate his hips-that is, ask him to move his hips while keeping his neck straight. Use only your leg at button #3, and enough rein pressure to keep your horse from moving forward.
Another idea to help isolate the hip is to have your horse parallel to the arena wall, or on the rail close to the wall. Keeping his nose at about the same spot on the wall, ask his hip to move over until you have made a 180 degree turn on the haunches. You should end paralell to the wall again, but facing the other direction down the rail.
Next time: Advanced Exercises: Bridling Up
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Controlling the Ribcage: Sidepassing
Controlling the Ribcage: Sidepassing
Controlling the rib cage is really a misnomer. What is generally meant by rib cage control is asking the horse to move its whole body laterally, as in a side pass.
To ask our horse to move his whole body laterally, ride him up to a fence so that he his facing it. We will ask him to move to the right first (reverse the cues to sidepass left). I find that it is easier to tip his nose in the direction opposite of travel in the beginning stages. Use a gently direct left rein to tip his nose to the left, and an opening right rein to give your horse an idea of which way he should go. Use your left leg at Button #2. Your horse will probably go backwards or sideways-just keep riding him up to the fence and asking again until he gives the correct response-moving his body to the right. Remember to work both sides of your horse!
When your horse is responding well to your leg at button #2 and sidepassing willingly on the wall, try sidepassing in the middle of the arena. You will probably need to use a little more back pressure on the reins to keep your horse from moving forward at first, until he understands that you are asking for lateral movement.
Next time: Controlling the Haunches
Controlling the rib cage is really a misnomer. What is generally meant by rib cage control is asking the horse to move its whole body laterally, as in a side pass.
To ask our horse to move his whole body laterally, ride him up to a fence so that he his facing it. We will ask him to move to the right first (reverse the cues to sidepass left). I find that it is easier to tip his nose in the direction opposite of travel in the beginning stages. Use a gently direct left rein to tip his nose to the left, and an opening right rein to give your horse an idea of which way he should go. Use your left leg at Button #2. Your horse will probably go backwards or sideways-just keep riding him up to the fence and asking again until he gives the correct response-moving his body to the right. Remember to work both sides of your horse!
When your horse is responding well to your leg at button #2 and sidepassing willingly on the wall, try sidepassing in the middle of the arena. You will probably need to use a little more back pressure on the reins to keep your horse from moving forward at first, until he understands that you are asking for lateral movement.
Next time: Controlling the Haunches
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Controlling the Shoulders-Counterbending Exercises
Controlling the shoulders can be the most difficult part of horse training. The horse naturally carries 60% of its weight on its forehand-and can be carrying 70% of the weight on his forehand when being ridden. It is understandable then why it can be difficult to move the horse’s shoulders around.
The easiest way that I have found to teach a horse to loosen up its shoulders is to walk a circle under saddle with correct bend. Using a light direct rein to tip the horse’s nose in the direction of travel, and your outside leg at button number 3 to keep his haunches in, walk a few circles. Try to make them as perfect as possible-don’t let his shoulder drop in or his haunches drift out. When he is walking a nice circle, use your inside leg at button #1, and ask your horse to move his shoulders over a step, making your perfect circle one step larger. Reward the slightest try by releasing the pressure of your inside leg at button #1.
When your horse is making a few steps over in response to leg pressure at button #1, then you can try a counter bend. Lets start circling to the right (reverse the cues to change the counter bend). To perform a counter bend, walk a circle to the right. Use your left indirect rein to tip his nose to the outside and create left bend, while simultaneously using a right opening rein to keep your horse circling right. Use your left leg at button #1 to maintain forward movement and to move his shoulders to the right. Again, reward the slightest attempt to move his front end over.
Next Time: Controlling the Ribcage
The easiest way that I have found to teach a horse to loosen up its shoulders is to walk a circle under saddle with correct bend. Using a light direct rein to tip the horse’s nose in the direction of travel, and your outside leg at button number 3 to keep his haunches in, walk a few circles. Try to make them as perfect as possible-don’t let his shoulder drop in or his haunches drift out. When he is walking a nice circle, use your inside leg at button #1, and ask your horse to move his shoulders over a step, making your perfect circle one step larger. Reward the slightest try by releasing the pressure of your inside leg at button #1.
When your horse is making a few steps over in response to leg pressure at button #1, then you can try a counter bend. Lets start circling to the right (reverse the cues to change the counter bend). To perform a counter bend, walk a circle to the right. Use your left indirect rein to tip his nose to the outside and create left bend, while simultaneously using a right opening rein to keep your horse circling right. Use your left leg at button #1 to maintain forward movement and to move his shoulders to the right. Again, reward the slightest attempt to move his front end over.
Next Time: Controlling the Ribcage
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Lateral and Vertical Flexion Exercises
Lateral Flexion-Controlling the Neck
The neck can move laterally from side to side. The goal in controlling the neck is asking the horse to flex his neck laterally.
Begin on the ground, outfitting your horse in a smooth snaffle. Stand at his shoulder, gently grasping the rein on the same side as you are standing. Gently pull the rein toward the saddle. Reward the slightest movement that the horse’s nose makes towards the saddle. Eventually, the horse should flex his neck so that his nose is near the stirrup when you gently pull the rein.
When mounted, at a standstill, repeat this exercise by grasping the rein and drawing your rein hand back to your hip. Release when your horse willingly gives his nose to you. Remember to work both sides of your horse!
This exercise is your emergency brake. If you teach your horse to willingly flex his neck, you can use it to stop his forward movement if you get into trouble. Work on this exercise at the walk, trot, and lope, pulling your rein hand back to your hip, and releasing only when his feet stop moving. Take the time early in your horse’s training to program this response, so that you know that your horse’s emergency brake is there if you need it.
Pictured Below: Wild BLM Mustang Renegade and I. This is her first ride. Before I ever get on any horse, anytime, I make sure that they will flex laterally on the ground, and then test for lateral flexion again when I get on. Here Renegade is demonstrating what she has learned on the ground-and I am testing my emergency brake.
Vertical Flexion-Controlling the Head
The goal in controlling the head (vertical flexion) is to get the horse to flex at the poll. This flexing at the poll is an important part of collection.
To begin, outfit your horse in a plain smooth snaffle. On the ground, stand to the side of your horse, facing him. Gently grab each rein about 6 inches from the bit, and pull with just a few ounces of pressure towards his chest. Release the pressure when he responds by flexing at the poll, or by moving his nose towards his chest.
When mounted, at a standstill, repeat this exercise by gently pulling both reins until your horse responds by flexing at the poll. When your horse flexes at the poll from a standstill, try it at a walk. At the walk you will need to keep gently bumping your horse with your legs to keep him moving forward as you gently hold the reins and ask him to flex at the poll. Release as soon as he responds.
When he understands this concept at a walk, try it at a trot. When he consistently flexes at the poll at the walk and trot, then you can ask him to hold his head flexed at the poll for a few strides. Gradually ask him for more. If he gets upset, then go back to where he is comfortable.
Remember-it is the release (reward) that teaches your horse. If you constantly pull on him, he will never understand what you are asking for. Reward the Slightest try!
Next Time: Controlling the Shoulders
The neck can move laterally from side to side. The goal in controlling the neck is asking the horse to flex his neck laterally.
Begin on the ground, outfitting your horse in a smooth snaffle. Stand at his shoulder, gently grasping the rein on the same side as you are standing. Gently pull the rein toward the saddle. Reward the slightest movement that the horse’s nose makes towards the saddle. Eventually, the horse should flex his neck so that his nose is near the stirrup when you gently pull the rein.
When mounted, at a standstill, repeat this exercise by grasping the rein and drawing your rein hand back to your hip. Release when your horse willingly gives his nose to you. Remember to work both sides of your horse!
This exercise is your emergency brake. If you teach your horse to willingly flex his neck, you can use it to stop his forward movement if you get into trouble. Work on this exercise at the walk, trot, and lope, pulling your rein hand back to your hip, and releasing only when his feet stop moving. Take the time early in your horse’s training to program this response, so that you know that your horse’s emergency brake is there if you need it.
Pictured Below: Wild BLM Mustang Renegade and I. This is her first ride. Before I ever get on any horse, anytime, I make sure that they will flex laterally on the ground, and then test for lateral flexion again when I get on. Here Renegade is demonstrating what she has learned on the ground-and I am testing my emergency brake.
Vertical Flexion-Controlling the Head
The goal in controlling the head (vertical flexion) is to get the horse to flex at the poll. This flexing at the poll is an important part of collection.
To begin, outfit your horse in a plain smooth snaffle. On the ground, stand to the side of your horse, facing him. Gently grab each rein about 6 inches from the bit, and pull with just a few ounces of pressure towards his chest. Release the pressure when he responds by flexing at the poll, or by moving his nose towards his chest.
When mounted, at a standstill, repeat this exercise by gently pulling both reins until your horse responds by flexing at the poll. When your horse flexes at the poll from a standstill, try it at a walk. At the walk you will need to keep gently bumping your horse with your legs to keep him moving forward as you gently hold the reins and ask him to flex at the poll. Release as soon as he responds.
When he understands this concept at a walk, try it at a trot. When he consistently flexes at the poll at the walk and trot, then you can ask him to hold his head flexed at the poll for a few strides. Gradually ask him for more. If he gets upset, then go back to where he is comfortable.
Remember-it is the release (reward) that teaches your horse. If you constantly pull on him, he will never understand what you are asking for. Reward the Slightest try!
Next Time: Controlling the Shoulders
Saturday, January 16, 2010
How Broke Is Your Horse Series: Article 2: Rein and Leg Aids
Last time we discussed why it is important to control the five body parts of your horse. This time I will explain the four rein aids that are used to cue your horse.
Rein Aids:
Direct Rein: Also called a plow rein, this cue is a direct pull on one rein. The result is a shortening of the stride of the fore-leg on the side of the cue. Ex) Right direct rein results in the stride of the right front leg shortening.
Indirect Rein: This rein cue involves a “key in the ignition” movement, lifting the
rein and bringing the pinky of the rein hand close to the horse’s neck. This cue helps lift the horse’s shoulder and move its front end over.
Opening Rein: This cue is performed by extending the elbow and pulling the rein
away from the rider’s body. The horse responds by tipping his nose to the direction of the pull, and by stepping its inside front leg over.
Neck Rein: This cue is applied by laying the rein across the horse’s neck. The horse
should respond by moving away from the rein.
Leg Aids:
To simplify leg cues, I am going to refer to them as buttons 1, 2 & 3. (A little trick I learned from pleasure horse trainer Darrel Hersom)
Button #1: This button is at or just slightly behind the cinch. This button moves the front end of the horse.
Button #2: This button is where the leg hangs naturally against the horse’s side. This button is used to cue forward movement when both legs push button two at the same time, or to cue the horse to move his rib cage (sidepass) when only one leg
pushes button two.
Button #3: This button is back behind normal leg position, and is utilized
to move the horse’s haunches.
Next Time: Exercises to develop control of your horses head-lateral and vertical flexion.
Rein Aids:
Direct Rein: Also called a plow rein, this cue is a direct pull on one rein. The result is a shortening of the stride of the fore-leg on the side of the cue. Ex) Right direct rein results in the stride of the right front leg shortening.
Indirect Rein: This rein cue involves a “key in the ignition” movement, lifting the
rein and bringing the pinky of the rein hand close to the horse’s neck. This cue helps lift the horse’s shoulder and move its front end over.
Opening Rein: This cue is performed by extending the elbow and pulling the rein
away from the rider’s body. The horse responds by tipping his nose to the direction of the pull, and by stepping its inside front leg over.
Neck Rein: This cue is applied by laying the rein across the horse’s neck. The horse
should respond by moving away from the rein.
Leg Aids:
To simplify leg cues, I am going to refer to them as buttons 1, 2 & 3. (A little trick I learned from pleasure horse trainer Darrel Hersom)
Button #1: This button is at or just slightly behind the cinch. This button moves the front end of the horse.
Button #2: This button is where the leg hangs naturally against the horse’s side. This button is used to cue forward movement when both legs push button two at the same time, or to cue the horse to move his rib cage (sidepass) when only one leg
pushes button two.
Button #3: This button is back behind normal leg position, and is utilized
to move the horse’s haunches.
Next Time: Exercises to develop control of your horses head-lateral and vertical flexion.
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